1. Natural environment

The mountainous island of Sifnos belongs to the island cluster of West Cyclades in the centre of the Aegean Sea and is the fourth, following Kea, Kythnos and Serifos, in the line of the islands that form the conceivable extension of Attica mountain range. The geomorphology of the island is characterised by hills and small fertile valleys verdant with olive trees, vines and grain inland and a coastline of graphic bights and creeks. In the centre of the island the highest peak, Prophetes Helias, imposes at an altitude of 678 metres, where the homonym monastery is located as well.

The western and southern parts are quite verdant, while in the northern part the land becomes wilder and the vegetation is reduced. Characteristic features of the Sifnian landscape are the dry-stone walls and the dense lines of terrace walls, which by adapting their geometric layout to the geological formation of the ground, create stone backbones in a rich relief.

Sifnos presents a great geological interest as ore deposits of gold, iron, lead and silver were exploited since the Antiquity, contributing to the prosperity of the island particularly in that period. Also, the abundant clay depositions in many areas of the island are widely used in the local pottery industry.

The more important settlements, as Apollonia, the modern capital of Sifnos, Artemonas, Katavate, Exampela, are located in the eastern part of the island and they expand following a unique linear pattern, a singular occurrence in the Cyclades. In the same region the historical settlement of Kastro, the castle, is found, the ‘city’ of Antiquity, which, nevertheless, maintains its medieval character.

There are no other smaller islets surrounding Sifnos, apart from the uninhabited islet Kitriani, in the southern end, near the cape Kontos.

2. History

2. 1. Antiquity

Most of the ancient historians mention that Sifnos was first inhabited by Pelasgians and later Phoenicians, Carians and Leleges. According to mythology, these people were expelled by the king of Crete Minos, who installed his sons as rulers in the Cyclades. Pliny reports that initially the island was named Meropi and Akis, while the name maintained up to modern times is attributed to Sifnos, son of the Attic hero Sounios.

The first evidence of occupation on the island is dated to the second half of the third millennium BC. Clusters of graves and foundations of settlements, revealed by the archaeologist Christos Tsountas in the end of the 19th century, mainly in coastal places, as at Akrotiri, Platis Yialos, Vathy and Faros. The great prosperity of the island in the Early Cycladic Period is testified by the discoveries in the citadel of Aghios Andreas and the cemetery, while the existence of a settlement in Kastro is dated to the Middle Cycladic Period.

In the Mycenaean period the settlements in the citadel of Aghios Andreas, Aghios Nikitas and Froudi of Kalamitsi. More specifically, Aghios Andreas is a very important prehistoric site with a sophisticated defensive system and has yielded systematic occupation until the 8th century BC, when the main settlement of the island was henceforth Kastro.

According to ancient tradition, in the beginning of the first millennium Athenians settled in Sifnos, with Alcenor as their leader. Upon their arrival a new period begun. According to Herodotus, the "city" in Kastro is founded. Based on the evidence of Stefanos Byzantios that the island had three cities, Sifnos, Minoa and Apollonia, the ruins of Kastro, with the monumental marble wall, are identified with ancient Sifnos. The society organised here developed important commercial and political relations not only with the nearby Cycladic area but also with distant regions.

Sifnos in the 6th century BC is one of the most thriving islands of the Cyclades and gained remarkable prestige. The wealth of the island derived mainly from the gold and silver mines, the quarries and the ceramic production. The testimonies of Herodotus and other ancient writers that silver and gold were produced in Sifnos were entirely confirmed by modern research, that is studies of the Institute of Nuclear Physics Max - Planck of Heidelburg in the 1970’s and 1980’s. Contemporary excavations have brought to light silver mines at Aghios Sostis, in the northeastern part of the island.

Proof of the thriving economy and prestige of the Sifnians is the reconstruction of the Treasury of the Sifnians in Delphi around 525 BC, from ‘dekate’, the tenth of the profits of the gold mines. The marble building, famous for its artistic wealth and aesthetic value, is of Ionic order. In the facade two Caryatids instead of columns support the entablature with exquisite plastic decoration, an exceptional sample of mature archaic sculpture.

During the Persian Wars the island supports the Athenians and later becomes a member of the A’ Athenian League. However, Sifnos does not possess the wealth of the Archaic period and progressively fell into oblivion. The political developments in the mainland Greece and the conflicts between Athens and Sparta during the Peloponnesian war affect life in Sifnos and a period of upheavals and political changes followed up.

At the Hellenistic period, as well as later on, the sea of Sifnos became the stage of many wars until the Roman conquest in145 BC, when the islands suffered from piracy.

Sifnos becomes relatively prosperous again in the Roman period, as the rich findings from the cemeteries and the impressive sarcophagi reveal. On the contrary, there are no ruins of public buildings.

2. 2. Byzantine period

The historical and literary references about Sifnos during the Byzantine period are scarce. From 324 AD, as it is stated by Synekdemos of Hierocles, it is included with the rest Cycladic islands in the Province of Islands of the East Roman Byzantine State and until the 6th century it belongs to the bishopric of Paros – Sifnos - Amorgos. The economic growth and the trade activity of the provinces of the southern Greek region reinforced the commercial importance of Sifnos in the Early Byzantine period.

The Dark Ages follow, a period of decline and collapse, when, as most islands of the Aegean, it suffered by raids of the Slavs and Arabs in the 7th century and of Latin pirates in the 11th century.

The economy of the period is known from general information to be basically rural, while for the structured environment the information we have is thrifty and fragmentary. In Kastro, which continued to be the prime settlement, the finds dated to the Byzantine period are limited. It is also known from the sources that in the Byzantine years, settlements were no longer built after earthquakes and various destructions in the Cyclades.

2. 3. Frankish period

After the abolition of the Byzantine Empire by the crusaders in 1204 Sifnos, along with the other Cycladic islands, was included in the Ducat of Naxos, which was founded in 1207 by Marco Sanudo. In 1269 it is reoccupied by the Byzantines and in 1307, after the treaty of peace between the Byzantine emperor and Venice it devolved to Ioannis Da Coronia, who proclaimed himself a free and independent sovereign. Da Coronia fortified the island, which was also coveted by the dukes of Naxos, built the mighty castle and repelled effectively the attacks of the other aspirants. During the 13th and 14th century Sipfnos was repeatedly bedevilled by piratical raids that often led to depopulation.

2. 4. Ottoman period

Sifnos remained in the power of Da Coronia family until 1464 and then it was devolved to the Gozzadini family. In 1537 Barbarossa, head of the Ottoman fleet, attacked the Cyclades and Gozzadini became tax tributary of the Sultan until 1566, when the administration of the islands was assigned to the Jewish Joseph Nazi. With the preferential treatment of Sultan Murat III in 1580 and Ibrahim I in 1646 to Sifnos, as well as the islands of Cyclades in general, the conditions encourage economic and the cultural development. Sifnos was administrated according to the institution of self-government, following the other Cycladic islands.

In the beginning of 17th century a dynamic personality acts on Sifnos, the eminent merchant Vassilis Logothetis, who contributed to the establishment of the island as the economic centre of the Cyclades, with activities in administration, agriculture, shipping and trade. His role in the intellectual life of the place is also of great importance as he funded the construction the monastery of Panaghia Vryssiani, which became a distinguished monastic and ecclesiastical centre. Towards the end of the17th century the famous Faculty of the Holy Grave was founded, known as the School of Archipelago. The school remained open up to 1833 in a building complex in Kastro, accommodating 300 students. The most important piece of information that the travellers in the 17th century provide is that this was the period when the population living in rural settlements outside the castle began to increase. During the Ottoman-Russian war in the years 1770-1774 it was occupied by the czarist Russia and was recovered by the Ottomans with the Küçük-Kaynarci treaty. Sifnos, like the rest of the Cyclades, became part of the Greek State in 1830.

2. 5. Modern period

After the Greek Revolution and during the government of Kapodistrias Sifnos constitutes a particular province in the region of Central Cyclades and it is the Administration seat, which comprised the islands Milos and Kimolos. During the Otto regency in 1833, the seat of Administration is transferred to Melos and Sifnos is divided in two municipalities, Artemonas-Kastro and Apollonia with the other villages. In 1836 the two municipalities united and Apollonia became the capital. In 1941 Sifnos was initially included in the Italian administration, as the Greek territories were occupied by the Axis forces. After the capitulation of Italy in 1943 the island was incorporated in the German administration until its liberation in 1944.

3. Archaeological sites and monuments

An important archaeological site of Sifnos lies on the hill of Agios Andreas. It is a fortified settlement which was created in the Early Cycladic period (3rd millennium BC), expanded in the Mycenaean years and retained important geometric and archaic habitation. The Mycenaean citadel is surrounded by a double wall: the internal, more powerful wall is constructed with cyclopean masonry and in its perimeter there are eight four-sided bastions. The reinforcement of the wall with bastions is not a characteristic feature of Mycenaean citadels, but probably reflects traditional techniques of the Aegean, as this is the case in the Early Bronze Age citadels of Troy, Palamari on Skyros, Kastri on Syros and others. The fortification went under repairs not only in the Geometric but also in the Classical period.

An impressive element of Sifnos history is the 57 identified towers. It is indisputable that Sifnos wield the sceptre regarding the dispersion of fortifying buildings in the countryside. These towers, which are all circular with an average external diameter around 8 metres, have been constructed in cultivated areas, on bulges or hillsides, and are dated to the Classical and Hellenistic period. They were very probably connected with the citadels of the island and used as telecommunication posts, watchtowers or, finally, as warehouses.

4. Traditional architecture

The island of Sifnos has drawn the interest of many scholars due to its unique land and town planning, but also due to the fact that it maintains almost intact the morphological character of authentic Cycladic architecture.

The cluster of the central settlements of the island is developed in a unique way following linearly the length of the basic central pedestrian and its side-roads. In the point where a settlement degenerates, the next settlement begins, while the buildings maintain their traditional architectural quality. The small interlacing cubic masses dominate, creating complicated complexes, with distinctive plasticity created by the heavily whitewashed surfaces and the almost sculptural configuration of the small scales without parapets. The neoclassical mansions are individual cases, which differ as they are usually placed on a raised platform, built independently in spacious plots.

The impression that is given, despite the individual differentiations of the settlement clusters, is that of homogeneity. An interesting trait of the villages derives also from the formation of the free space, public and private, as the widening in the road system and the squares, but also from the position of courtyards in houses, which underline its unity.

The traditional paved streets with the whitewashed joints and terraces are of unique aesthetic value.

The settlement of Kastro is an individual habitation complex, located on a strategic point on a plateaux of a steep hillside above the sea. Being fortified already from Antiquity, it offered a safe shelter in all historical periods. The continuous occupation has changed to a large extent the older builting cores, but the features of the Venetian fortress with the defensive rings are still preserved. The castle was built in the beginning of 14th century by Giannoylis Da Coronia. The exterior walls of the medieval houses adjoined and formed the defensive wall with only exits and entries through five vaulted porches. Typical features of the settlement are the closeness and the lack of communal spaces and courtyards, which along with the need for defence led to the construction of houses with two and three floors. Small houses of one room and narrow façade are built in the exterior ring, while big mansions in the interior.

5. Popular culture – popular art

In an effort to distinguish the particular characteristics of the popular culture of Sifnos among the broader Cycladic culture, we can mention the traditional carols that people sing on New Years Eve and on Saint Vassilios day. They are of a particular interest not only for their lyrics but also for their originality. Each time the carols were sung, the residents of the island differentiated them by either citing the important events of the year or by criticising individuals and situations.

Pottery possesses a distinctive place in the life of Sifnians and more generally in the economy of the island. The activity was also developed due to the local geology and the particular abundance in layers of clay. This activity flourished in the 18th century and in the beginnings of the 20th. Moreover, it expanded to other regions with most important the installation of the Sifnians in Attica, mainly in Piraeus and in Maroussi.

(Maria Konioti)
(Transl. Georgia Kalogeropoulou - Panagiotis Karioris)

5. 1. Pottery

Sifnos is one of the best-known ceramics’ production centers in Greece. To make their pottery, Sifnians exploited the abundant high quality argil deposits, the running water from springs, and the lentisk, used as carburant.

5. 1. 1. The rise and fall of ceramics’ production

The art of making pottery developed significantly during the 18th century and the early 20th century. Ceramists made mostly ceramics for domestic use –especially cooking vessels called tsikalia (crocks)–, which were very important to every household.

Sifnian ceramists’ fame spread across Greece, and Sifnian became a byword for crock or jug maker. Sifnian ceramics were not only sold at nearby areas, but in the broader Eastern Mediterranean region too. They were sold from the island’s leeward creeks (e.g. Vathi, Kamares, Platis Yialos, Cherronisos, Faros), where ceramics’ workshops –the tsikalaria– had been established.

Crucial to producing and selling products was seasonal migration: ceramists moved in order to work seasonally at nearby places already since the 18th century up to the first years following World War II. Organized in guilds called takimia, they visited surrounding islands in the spring, where they made pottery and sold it at the local markets. In autumn, they would return to Sifnos and take care of their land and stock.

During the first years following World War II, many ceramists left the island for Athens, leading to the decrease and final fall of the Sifnian tsikalaria. Marousi (Athens) and the surrounding areas were the places most ceramists settled. At the same time, modern technology reduced traditional ceramics’ workshops throughout Greece.

5. 1. 2. Organizing production

Organizing production at the tsikalaria was based on either occupying family members or a workforce. In the first case, chief artisan was the man, whereas the rest of the family members were just workers (pasperetes) with a supplementary part. The boys worked as apprentices in order to carry on with the family tradition, whereas women mostly took care of the working members’ food, but also helped at the tsikalaria. In the second case, working relations were defined and working hours firm: from dusk until dawn. Ceramists returned to their homes at the island’s main settlements from the onshore workshops only on Saturday nights.

Ceramists’ main tool was the leg-driven banding wheel, which they used to shape the ductile clay, whereas there were also some auxiliary tools. By baking the clay in the kiln, they gave the pottery its final shape and red color. After baking it, ceramists decorated it with several drawings using white diluted clay (bandanas).

5. 1. 3. Typical Sifnian pottery

Of all cooking vessels, the tsikali and the mastelo were the best-known. Tsikali was the main mass exported product of Sifnos. Made of fireproof clay it was renowned throughout Greece as being the best cooking utensil. It is still used for cooking the Sifnian chickpea soup. Mastelo is the traditional utensil used for baking meat in the oven at Easter; that is one of the most famous dishes of Sifnos.

Pitchers, used for carrying water, were the hardest to make because of their unusual shape. Lainas, or lainaki, a kind of water or wine jug, was also known because of its use during the custom of klidonas, on July 24, the day of St. John the Baptist: it was filled with water and was used for augury. Typical traditional vessels were also the foufou, the traditional portable clay stove, and the flaros, something covering chimney holes on roofs.

5. 1. 4. Modern production

Increasing tourism in the ’70s revived the tsikalaria of Sifnos. Now, workshops operate only from June to August, and the new pottery produced has been adapted to tourists’ needs. Production comprises mostly of cruses, cups, decorative platters and related souvenirs. Some traditional forms (pitcher, flaros) are still made, but used differently. Pitchers are now decorative (frequently at cottages), whereas the flaros is now used as a lamp. However, both locals and visitors are given the chance to enjoy the work of the new ceramists’ generation at an exhibition held every summer at the Castle of Sifnos.

(Eleni Bazini)
(Transl. Georgios Velentzas)