1. Introduction

The geographical conditions and the geomorphology of the islands have been decisive factors in the configuration of rural economy, production, exploitation of raw materials and of the dietary habits in the islands of the Aegean. In the Cyclades the ground is rather mountainous and the climate dry. In the Dodecanese and in the North-East Aegean the products which are cultivated in the rest of Greece thrive as well, due to the more humid climate of these islands. The particular dietary habits have been formed not only due to economic reasons, but also due to historical and cultural circumstances.

2. Examples of dietary tradition

Here are some indicative dietary traditions of the Cyclades, as they were formed historically from the beginning of the Modern period up to WWII.

On Anafi, women make the “koufeto” (a sweet for weddings and joy) at Christmas, while on New Year’s Day they bake the “anafiotiko zaforisto” bread (with safran) in the traditional oven. On Syros, the catholics eat fish and cauliflower on Christmas Eve. On Amorgos, the custom of the captain on the first Sunday before lent (Tyrinis) survives. During the ceremony the person who plays "Bairaktaris" carries a staff with the following symbols on top: cheese for Tyrini, octopus or cod for the fore coming lent and a cob-loaf of bread. The person who plays the captain is supposed to offer all the treats. On Sifnos, people used to keep a fast on the eve of Kleidonas (St John’s day on the 24th of June). Thus, before the opening of Kleidonas, a fava stew (dish with split peas) was served at the celebration table.

A custom common in the Cyclades since the Byzantine period is called "hoirosfagia" (butchering swine). The ‘hoirosfagia’ took place in October, when the weather was cool. It was a social event, with the preparations beginning in the previous evening. Early in the morning the feast began, including eating and drinking wine, music and dance.

Naturally, fish constituted a staple in the Aegean diet. Game was also a constant practice of supplementing their diet.

3. Products

3. 1. Cheese

Chloro (fresh): unripened cheese from goat’s milk from Santorini. Its distribution is limited within the borders of the island. As its name declares, it is eaten fresh.

San Mihalis: hard, yellowish cheese similar to pecorino cheese. It is produced exclusively on Syros by the co-operative milk factory. As many varieties of Cycladic cheese, it is made with cow’s milk, pasteurised in this particular case. Since 1996 it has officially been recognized as an ‘appellation of origin’ product. There is a long-lived tradition of cow cheese production in the Cyclades that goes back to the years of Venetian occupation, when the catholic governors imported food and production techniques. San Mihalis is named after a village on a homonym hill of the island. Its fat content varies between 30-40%. It is left to ripen for at least 3-4, or even more months, and its taste is rich and spicy. It is usually eaten as table cheese, fried, grated, or cooked in pies.

Kopanisti: kopanisti has been officially recognized as ‘appellation of origin’ product and it is found on every Cycladic island, even though it is mainly known from Tinos, Syros and Mykonos. This is a soft cheese with peppery taste. The methods of production vary among the islands, but they also depend on whether the cheese is comes from domestic or industrial production. Kopanisti is usually produced with fresh milk, cow’s or a mixture of sheep’s or goat’s milk, which has not gone through thermic treatment, it is set with natural yeast and strained in strainers cloths. It ripens for several months, when wine is added and the cheese is kneaded many times.

Malahto: this cheese is made on Andros Its production is based on a process of pressing the fresh cheese between stones. Then, it is kneaded with a small quantity of salt. It is preserved by covering it with a cloth soaked in raki.

Volaki: creamy table cheese from Tinos and Andros. The fresh cheese, which has the form of a disc is crumbled, salt is added and is kneaded in balls of the size of a fist. The producers put the cheese in the strainer cloth and hang it in cool, shady places, where it strains and ripens. Another variety of this cheese is the sklavotyri or malathouni of Tinos.

Gylomeno or Manoura: hard cheese that is produced almost exclusively with fresh goat milk. It takes its name after the local name used for the sediment left on the wine barrel’s bottom, which on Sifnos and elsewhere is called gyli. When the cheese sets in, it is preserved and matures in the sediment left in the barrel. Cheese which soaks in wine is common in many Greek places, mainly in the islands, while in the Cyclades this is a local speciality of Sifnos and Folegandros. It is savoury hard cheese served with raki and ouzo.

Niotiko: hard yellow cheese from Ios made with sheep's milk. Cheese maturing lasts three months.

Skotyri: soft cheese from Ios which matures in kid sacs. Similar cheese is also found in other parts of Greece. The peculiarity of this cheese is that it is kneaded with savoury before maturing.

3. 2. Cold meat

Lousa: made with pork meat on Syros, Andros, Tinos and Mykonos with certain local variations. The meat is taken from the part of the animal which gives the fillet. On Syros the meat remains in salt for 24 hours, is rinsed and then seasoned with grains of pepper, spice, cloves and cinnamon. Then it is wrapped with the intestines and in towels and placed under a heavy weight for one night to acquire the characteristic flat broad shape. The next day it is sprinkled with pepper and it is hung to dry for a period of about two months.

On Tinos, the fillet remains in coarse salt for 4-6 days and then it is marinated in sweet red wine for many days. After it has been removed from the wine, it is sprinkled with fennel seeds, pepper, nutmeg and spices. Then, it is wrapped with the intestines, in the towels and finally, it is placed under weight. Next, it is dry-cured for four hours over vine-rods. After it is cured, it is hung to dry in open air for about two months.

On Andros, lousa is made from sirloin steak and for this reason it is called ‘vasilikia’, that is royal. The meat is boned and put in coarse salt for about 12 hours. Then it is hung from ‘krevataria’ (a wicker) over a low fire of cypress wood and it is smoked all night long. The next morning it is removed from the wicker, they rinse it with tepid water, dry it and cut in pieces of about 150 gr., which are cooked in a cauldron full of fat, where the lard boils and the meat is braised. After it has been cooked it is put in a large jar filled with melted fat (called glina).

On Mykonos, the fillets are left in salt for 24 hours, having been kneaded with plenty of spice, pepper, oregano and savoury. Then, they stuff it in a "matia" (the large intestine of the pig), it is hung and is left to dry in fresh air for 10-15 days, while they burn "voudies" (manure which keep away the flies as it smokes).

Lousa does not need to be preserved in refrigerator. The Mykonians love to serve it with black sun-dried wine from "kountoures" (black grapes of Mykonos). Lousa is served cut in thin slices without the intestines.

Apokti: salted meat similar to lousa, which is made on Santorini.

Sausages: the sausages are prepared in the Cyclades exclusively with pork meat. They are seasoned, particularly on Syros and Tinos, with fennel seeds. Syros and Tinos are also the home places of garlic sausages. The sausages of Mykonos are seasoned with savoury, spice, salt, oregano and pepper, dried in air and has a higher content of clean meat. On Andros, the sausages are made with pieces of pork meat that are kneaded with local wine, orange grate, salt, pepper and aniseed.

Siglina: small pieces of pork meat that are reserved in pork fat. Sometimes the word implies the fat used for the preparation of fourtalia (omelette) on Andros and Tinos.

3. 3. Vegetables

Santorini fava: the split peas of Santorini (called fava) are different from the varieties cultivated in other parts of Greece and Mediterranean, due to the volcanic, arid soil and the dry climate. Fava has a characteristic deep yellow colour and intense taste.

Cherry tomatoes: a unique variety of cherry tomatoes grow on Santorini. They resemble Italian pomodori. The tomato is small and has fruity taste and thick skin. It is believed that the tomatoes were imported to the island from Italy. Up to the ‘50s, the cultivation and canning of the tomatoes was a basic economic factor for the island.

Caper: caper is an ‘element of identity’ for the Cyclades. It mainly flourishes on Santorini, Tinos, Andros and Syros. It is gathered during May and June and it is placed in brine where it should remain for a period which varies between three weeks and one month.

Potatoes of Naxos: the potato of Naxos is a special variety. For many years potato production was a basic source of income of the rural economy of the island.

3. 4. Grapes, wines and spirits

Santorini and Paros are the main wine producing islands in the Cyclades. Santorini is considered one of the most important wine producing islands in Greece. The volcanic soil and the unique microclimate of the island play an important role in viticulture. In summer the high temperatures during daytime are followed by considerably lower at night. At that time the volcanic ground absorbs the essential for the vines humidity. On Santorini, as well as on Paros, there are organised wine producers. Traditionally Paros produced great quantities of unbottled red wine (Mandilari or Mandilaria). Upon the arrival of tourism the needs of the market were readjusted.

3. 4. 1. Grapes

Varieties of white grapes: Aidani, Asyrtiko, Athiri, Monemvasia or Malvazia.

Varieties of red grapes: Mandilari or Mandilaria, Asyrtiko, Athiri, Blegleri, Mavromoshato, Rodomousi and Staurohioti.

3. 4. 2. Wines

Brousko (Dry): its place of origin is Santorini. Its name comes from the Italian and it means ‘coarse’. It is a strong wine which contains 16-17% alcohol. It is produced from white asyrtiko, red mandilaria, or with the mixing of these two (rose).

Nykteri (night): a typical dry white wine of Santorini. It is named from the fact that traditionally the harvest, processing and pressing of the grapes lasted for an entire day and a big part of the night.

Vinsanto: a sweet wine from Santorini. Its name is of Italian origin, from the Italian phrase "vino santo", which means wine of the Holy Communion. It is produced from grapes of asyrtiko and aidani varieties, which are left to dry in the sun.

3. 4. 3. Spirits

Raki, strofylia, tsikoudia or tsipouro: it is produced from the "tsamboura", which are the remains from the pressing of grapes, which is pulped, placed in large jars for the fermentation and are distilled in a cauldron. The first distillation (protorako) is also used as alcohol. The distillation is repeated many times, until the last distillation (souma) is produced.

Citron: a speciality from Naxos, produced from the distillation of citron leaves (contrary to other Mediterranean countries, where it is produced from the fruit). It is served as aperitif.

3. 5. Sweets and candies

Soumada: refreshment made from bitter almonds and served traditionally in weddings.

Lyhnarakia of Tinos and melitinia of Santorini: Easter sweet cheese pies made in a special shape. They are made with fresh, unsalted soft cheese (called mizithra) and aromatic spices (mastic, cinnamon, vanilla).

Dry figs: the mature figs are left in the sun to dry (kounalia) and then are baked in the oven. In certain cases, before the figs are dry and cooked, they are filled with a mixture of walnut or almond, sesame and cinnamon.

Sweet sugared almond: a candy made in Santorini. White almonds are boiled in syrup and local honey. Traditional sweet served in weddings.
Sweet fruit preserve: sweet fruit preserves are found all over Greece. In the Cyclades, a special preserve from lemon flower is made on Andros.

Marsh-mallows (loukoumia): candy produced in many small workshops on Syros island. It originated from Asia Minor and Istanbul. The skills for its production were brought to the island by refugees from Chios. The basic ingredients are simple (water, starch and sugar). However, its preparation requires particular mastery and experience. There are various flavours: mastic, bergamot, rose, tangerine, coconut, almond, peanut, walnut, chocolate etc.

Nougat: a speciality of Syros. They look like a thin white pie and they are filled with a pulp made of local honey, almonds and a root of African origin that facilitates the setting of the mixture.

4. Two traditional recipes

4. 1. Tomato balls (pseudokeftedes)

Ingredients for 4-6 servings:
1-1½ cup chopped tomatoes (preferably Cycladic cherry-tomatoes)
½ cup chopped spring onion
1 clove chopped garlic
2 spoonfuls chopped parsley
2 spoonfuls chopped spearmint or a pinch oregano
salt
pepper
1 cup flour or a bit more (depending on how juicy the tomatoes are)
1 teaspoonful baking powder
Frying oil

Preparation:
Mix the tomatoes, spring onions, garlic, herbs and spices in a bowl. Mix the flour with the baking powder. Gradually add the flour mix in the tomato dough, adding a small quantity each time. Beat constantly until you make smooth dough and shape it into balls. Heat the frying oil in a frying pan or in saucepan. Take a ball and fry it in the oil. Continue with all the tomato balls. When they get golden, remove them with a skimmer and leave them on kitchen paper so that any excess oil will be absorbed.

4. 2. Pie with honey

Ingredients for 6-8 servings:
2½ cups flour for all purposes
½ cup caster sugar
½ teaspoonful baking powder
1 cup butter diced
2 big eggs
¼ cup brandy

For the filling:
750 grams soft cheese (fresh mizithra)
1 cup honey
2 eggs beaten
4-5 spoonfuls flour
1 teaspoonful cinnamon

Preparation:
Mix the flour, sugar and baking powder in a big bowl. Add the butter and mix it with the flour, kneading it with your fingers. Add the eggs and brandy and knead until it becomes smooth dough. Divide the dough in half and shape two balls. Press them with your hands and shape two round pastries. Wrap them separately in tinfoil and let them rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Mix the cheese with honey in a bowl, add the eggs and the cinnamon.

Put a baking sheet in a baking pan of 24x36 cm and grease it. Dust some flour on a workbench and roll out the first pastry sheet. It should be quite thin and larger than the diameter of the baking pan. Put the pastry sheet in the baking pan, letting any excess unfold over the rim of the baking pan and put in the filling. Roll out the second pastry sheet and cover the filling. Fold in the edges of the bottom sheet and knead them with the upper sheet to shape a wreath around the pie. Bake the pie in a preheated oven for 40 minutes until it is golden on the surface. Make sure that it is well cooked. Dust with cinnamon and serve warm.